Olympic National Park, WA: A forest so dense, no wonder Sasquatch is MIA

You know how they say nature heals? Living in the Sierra Nevadas, I can confirm this personally. But my diehard love for the Sierras aside, I’ll admit that Washington (Olympic National Park in particular) does it best. 5 days in the majestic, emerald-hued park and its surroundings is enough to transform and revive any hint of ennui or malaise. Glacial rivers, mossy thickets, towering green mountains, and a faint oceanic breeze transmit Mother Earth’s masterful presence to all who visit. It’s any outdoorsman's paradise. So strap on your Patagonia bucket hat and let’s get to explorin’.

*Disclaimer: We didn't have enough time to traverse the whole park. My recommendations are primarily for the North side, but the South also has plenty to offer.

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Hiking Olympic National Park

Mount Storm King

Are you looking for a hiking pilgrimage? A hero’s journey abyss? Then you must start your trip with a trek up this mountain to really kick your health and wellness journey into high gear from the start. My friend and I both love trail stomping but we are by no means expert mountaineers and this peak kicked our appealingly-jiggly butts in the best way. A 2-mile, 2,000-foot ascent and a rope-pull to the the summit had us literally stumbling back down, legs shaking, tripping over tree roots. I make it sound treacherous (and it kind of is) but the diverse forest, killer views, and feeling of accomplishment at the top are unbeatable. We baptized ourselves in Lake Crescent afterwards, braving the cold waters for some much-needed muscle rehab.

Hoh Rainforest and Hall of Mosses

Why yes, the temperate rainforest this park is known for. First a few pointers – go early and opt for rain. Let me elaborate. There is only one entrance into the Hoh (yes, pronounced like a… woman of the night, we checked) and it’s a one-car-in, one-car-out policy so, unless you arrive right as they open, you’ll likely be waiting in line for up to 2 hours. We made the most of it, laughing and playing games, so we didn’t mind. And although rain would have come in clutch to see the rainforest in its full glamour, it was beautiful regardless. We marveled at the droopy mosses, sprawling bed of ferns, and the absolutely clearest mountain water we’ve ever seen. The park offers ranger-led hikes into the Hall of Mosses itself and I highly recommend this – you will learn fascinating things, including the importance of nursing trees. There are plenty of other trails to explore as well and you can access the Hoh River from most of them. Post-hike, we sprawled out on a river beach made entirely out of smooth, warm stones and committed to another glacial dip.

Sol Duc Falls and Surroundings

This to me was the pinnacle of Washington. We woke up to satisfying pitter-patter ASMR, donned our rain jackets, and drove into the misty, dripping center of Olympic to hike to the Sol Duc waterfall. Man, if only words could accurately relay how saturated the forest felt on this day. Squelching. Alive and breathing. Painfully beautiful. It was like walking through a hazy fairytale kingdom, bright green leaves of every size waving at you as you passed. There are many trails that branch out from this park entrance, including one that goes up to Mount Olympus (which you can only reach by hike), but we primarily stayed around the falls, stopping at various river banks and taking lunch on a big tree root. This was an Aquarius day, a tribute to water. After, we stopped at Sol Duc Springs Resort to hop between sulfurous pools under a refreshing, Pacific-Northwestern rain.

Lake Crescent

The lake deserves its own spotlight moment. We didn’t explicitly hike the Lake Crescent Trail but this massive body of water was a focal point on our trip. Large and almost ominous, it required us to skirt it on the way to every hike, showing off its varying personalities every time - clear and blue, dark and powerful, misty and mysterious. We longed to jump into its crystalline waters every day and imagined Nessy’s American cousin making loops in the 624-foot depths. After our trip (and after proudly braving a dip in its brisk water), we found out that it really is a mighty force and people perish in it quite frequently purely due to the cold… Oops! Of course, we were very safe but a word of caution for you fans of cold water dips out there. On our last day when it rained, the lake was a marvel - blanketed in a rainy fog and surprisingly warm and calm, reminding us that we’d have to return to it one day.

Other Hikes and Natural Points of Interest

Hole in Wall at Rialto Beach

Hurricane Ridge

Lake Crescent Trail

Spruce Nature Trail

Marymere Falls

Kalaloch Tree of Life

Devil’s Punchbowl

HOH River Trail

Dungeness Spit

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Eating

Our objective was to keep a tight budget, so we spent our mornings eating breakfast at camp with the rising sun and prepping turkey sandwiches for our trail lunches. We did go out for dinner in Port Angeles a few times and, although the town felt a little dead, we ate some yummy provisions. Here are a few places we did and didn’t visit, from Port Angeles all the way to Port Townsend, that I’d recommend.

Honorable mention goes to Welly’s Ice Cream in Port Angeles where we gulped down many junior sized sweet creams.

​Breakfast & Coffee New Day Eatery Granny’s Cafe First Street Haven Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery Rainshadow Cafe NW Coffee Company Higher Grounds Espresso Essence Coffee Roasters Hurricane Coffee Co Seal Dog Coffee Bar Cafe Tenby The Nest The Cup Drinks Bourbon West New Moon Craft Tavern Harbinger Wine Bar Wind Rose Cellars The Castle The In Between Propolis Brewing Pourhouse

​Lunch/Dinner Bella Italia Next Door Gastropub Lake Crescent Lodge Spruce Midtown Public House The Roosevelt Barhop Brewing 48 Degrees North Dupuis Restaurant Salty Girls Seafood Co Alder Wood Bistro Finistere Sirens Pub Tommyknocker’s Cornish Pasty The Guardhouse Anchor Alchemy Bistro

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Lodging

There really aren’t that many lodging options in Port Angeles (unless money isn’t a factor). But to keep it cheap, we had a choice of motels, glamping, or regular camping. We chose glamping at a spot close to the park entrance and although we had an amazing time overall and loved our bell tent tucked away in a little glen, I would not recommend the location we stayed in (Starlight Camp) purely due to the way it was managed. If I were to take this trip a second time, I’d have figured out a way to just camp somewhere in the actual park and fully immerse myself in the forest. And for a bit of a splurge, Lake Crescent Lodge, Lake Quinault Lodge, Sol Duc Springs Resort, or the Log Cabin Resort are all great options that feel quintessentially Washington.

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To be frank, this trip was profoundly meaningful to me. My friend and I immersed ourselves in the true depths of nature, bonded over many things, and flew home with a clearer sense of ourselves in relation to the beautiful planet we live on.

But I know what’s really plaguing your mind at the end of this post. Did we… find Sasquatch? Well, although we didn’t get to shake his hand (paw?), I’m convinced his (or her, depending on who you ask) inevitable presence was protecting us throughout our trip. Whether through personal stories gathered from locals, or through subconscious nudges to stay out of the deep end of Lake Crescent, a mysterious presence definitely resides in those woods… Best of luck finding it on your next trip!

(Just kidding, we did find him)

Sedona, AZ: Where the ley lines lead

Are we still on Earth? The thought begs serious consideration as our rental 4x4 descends slowly into the mouth of the red rock valley. Great monoliths of layered red velvet impose themselves on every corner of our sight, as little desert dwellings materialize at the foot of the slabs, all painted an earthen color, camouflaged yet striking. Both of us hailing from the evergreen forests of Northern California, my friend and I can’t stop ooh-ing and ahh-ing as each ocherous mountain range unfolds like a slow-moving stage set. Sedona feels enormous and strange. While planning this trip, I scoffed at the New-Age-centered tourism that’s popular here but, as we would come to understand, it’s not for nothing. Hematite cliffs surround you like a temple, energetic fields converge into vortexes, and before you know it, you’re getting your palm read at the Center for the New Age. Let’s get metaphysical, folks, and make the most out of a few days in Sedona, Arizona.

Jordan trail, near Soldier's Pass

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Hiking

A note for those of you who are not morning people (myself included) – nature doesn’t wait! Especially in Sedona, where outdoor activities are the main draw. Hikers, bikers, forest-bathers, sophisticated lululemon-clad bachelorette girls, will all be flocking to the outdoors and it will be to your benefit to beat them to the trail. This is particularly true if you’re going in the spring and have a higher chance of being personally victimized by that Arizona heat. Trail parking in Sedona is also painfully limited but the shuttle system is straightforward - look up your desired trail head and park at the shuttle parking lot in time for the shuttle to drive you directly to the trail.

And remember what I said about strangeness? Don’t expect simple trails. You will run into many other confused hikers looking for a specific trail fork or end point, and you will all stand there cluelessly together, scratching your heads and shrugging your shoulders. “Vortexes, right??”

Our limited time and an April heat wave prevented us from hitting every single trail, but here’s a list of the best beaten and not-so-beaten paths I recommend.

Soldier's Pass / Soldier's Arch Caves

Soldier Pass, ending in Soldier Arch/Cave – This trail was properly exhausting but so worth it. We hiked Soldier Pass with the objective of making it to the rumored caves and, although it took some backtracking, once we got there… wow. After a steep clamber up, you arrive at a towering red rock wall and make your way into a wide, sunken chamber, quiet and cool after the blazing heat. There’s a long sitting ledge, perfect for a sandwich break and a gaze through one of the cave’s “windows” onto a sweeping vista. An absolutely spiritual experience.

Cathedral rock – One of the more famous trails and very well-rounded. We decided to cheat the system and the crowds by approaching via Crescent Moon Ranch ($10 to park). Again we hit that Sedona vortex confusion but overall, it worked out great – less people, a walk along Oak Creek, lush surroundings. If you decide to start at Cresent Moon in the spring, veer South from the entry booth, cross the creek, and follow the Red Rock Crossing Trail to Baldwin Trail to get to Cathedral Rock.

Brewer / Airport Mesa – We didn’t exactly hike this trail but we walked a portion of it for a Sunrise Yoga class, and it was gorgeous! Expansive panoramas, diverse flora and fauna… we even saw a family of javelinas making their way down to the creek.

Little Horse – We didn’t personally hike this one, but I’ve heard good things. Plus you can take this one up to Chapel of the Cross, which is worth seeing in its own right anyway.

Birthing Cave – We didn’t get to visit this one either but it was one of our desired hikes. It’s a bit of a drive from central Sedona but is worth it for the spiritual significance. It’s said that the Hopi women of Sedona used this cave to birth their babies, safe and sheltered there from predators and other dangers.

Other trails and areas of note: Slickrock, Chicken Point, Bell Rock, Devil’s Bridge, Subway Cave, Palatki Heritage Site, Honanki Heritage Site, Slide Rock.

Braving the Sedona heat at the foot of Cathedral Rock

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Culture

The culture of Sedona is multi-layered, just like its red rock. Although written history is limited, archeological ruins tell of many indigenous groups that inhabited Sedona, starting about 10,000 years ago. The Anasazi, with their impressive cave dwellings, the Hohokam, who irrigated the land, the Sinaqua “dry farmers”, the Hopi, and many others intermingling with each other to survive and thrive in the beautiful, intense desert. As Spanish conquistadors infiltrated the indigenous way of life, colonialism spread and eventually Caucasian settlers were requesting a post office in the area, naming it Sedona, after one of the settler’s wives. Once Sedona was discovered by Hollywood filmmakers as a perfect Western backdrop in the 50s, its name was put on the map as a unique, luxurious destination.

For a place that was no stranger to various types of colonizers, I was amazed by how much reverence Sedona still holds for its roots, its lost civilizations, its colorful history. You can feel it in the respect local Sedonians have for the spiritual significance of the land. Likely without the knowledge of indigenous ancestors, modern humans would have taken a bit longer to catch on that there was something otherworldly about this “cathedral without walls” (although the New Age movement really skyrocketed in the 80s when an American psychic “identified” the Sedona energy vortexes within the public eye).

Some might argue that Sedona is a bit too woo-woo. And you certainly get that sense when every other store you stroll by sells crystals and aura photographs. But the key is to discern what feels genuine and what doesn’t – tap into your intuition, so to speak. Personally, I ended up doing an archetypal reading at a random little store and received a lot of helpful insight. And our sunrise yoga guide, tapped just enough into the spiritual aspects of the landscape around us to make it feel meaningful.

Chapel of the Cross

A great way to get a feel for the cocktail of culture in Sedona, especially if you only have a few days, is to visit the Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village. Inspired originally by quaint Mexican villages, this charming artists’ gathering place is now a central destination for music, fine dining, unique souvenirs, and all kinds of interesting events. The village was built in a grove of sycamore trees and the artisans and plasterers who built it (all self-taught, at the request of the architect), were encouraged to take creative liberties by sculpting the buildings around the trees themselves. A truly unique place. We happened to watch a flamenco show there, followed by a nice dinner at Rene’s – we felt like we were transported to another place and time.

TLDR; there is a lot to explore in Sedona, outside of just the hiking trails, and I highly encourage bringing an open mind to this incredible place!

Tlaquepaque Village

Sedona Swirl is a must-stop for a unique souvenir!

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Eating

Would you be shocked to hear that the best food we had in the high desert was seafood? That’s right! (FYI it was Shorebird). But not only… there are so many little gems in Sedona, and many new ones popping up. Pretty much every dining (and breakfasting and snacking) experience was delicious and high-quality. My friend and I both like variety when we eat out, usually splitting many dishes, so our overall consensus was a resounding YES. My recommendations, as follows:

Rascal Modern Kitchen

Shorebird Sedona

Tii Gavo

Che Ah Chi

The Hudson

Willows Kitchen

Cress on Oak Creek

Mariposa

Dahl & Di Luca

Rene at Tlaquepaque

Hummingbird

Vespa Italian Cafe

Local Juicery

Savannah Bee Company (stop in for the Mead bar at the back!)

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The last thing I’ll call out, that unfortunately we missed out on due to a randomly overcast day, would be a Stargazing Tour. Sedona is a Dark Sky destination and I’d consider it totally worth checking out our surrounding, beautiful galaxy with a trained professional (and a fancy telescope).

Our few days in Sedona flew by and, after writing this blog a few months later, I’ve come to realize that there is still so much to see there. Sedona’s strangeness is beckoning me back, a quiet mystery sitting patiently among the towering rock giants, waiting to be explored.

Costa Rica: An Opulent Wellspring to Quench Your Tropical Thirst

The bar was at an all-time high for such a well-praised country. Not to mention, a 2-year, pandemic-induced draught of international travel…! Suffice it to say, I was absolutely itching to be in a hot, humid place, cocooned in vibrant flora and fauna, without a care in the world. Now, having already returned home after this glorious trip, the itch is still with me, in the form of fond Costa Rican memories. And a few phantom bug bites.

Before you ask – no, we did not go ziplining. We did much cooler things (I joke but also when planning trips I tend to rule out the things everyone usual does, i.e. crowd-avoidance 101). My objective for this trip was to taste the real Pura Vida and amass a true smorgasbord variety of experiences. I’ll preface that with the fact that Costa Rica is a very tourist-centric country (in a very smart way I might add), so it took some savvy planning to pack in all the key experiences, but to do them right and to keep them unique.

So here are my top 3 must-dos for an immersive trip to this Central American oasis, followed by 10-days-worth of points of interest.

1. Rent a car

I can say with certainty that had we not done this, our trip would have paled in comparison. We went off-route, drove through cute towns, stopped for road-side coconuts, spoke to locals, and discussed the endless array of Spanish road signs for local establishments. But note, I happen to be blessed with an Ultimato Pilato husband who made all those insane Costa Rican potholes his b**ch, to put it lightly, so take that for what it’s worth. The roads are baaaaad, especially in the rainy season, so 4WD and full insurance coverage are both absolutely necessary.

2. Stay in a hotel that already has hot springs

In La Fortuna, our hotel already had incredible thermal pools of varying temperatures. Given that we only had 2 days there, this was crucial because there were so many other things to do and if we’d had to access hot springs somewhere else, we likely would have just skipped that activity. Plus, you can’t beat coming “home” after a full day of adventure and wading right into the pools to marinate.

3. Don’t underestimate wet season

Do you want to see bucolic rolling green hills? Do you want to see mind-blowing sunsets? Do you want a refreshing cloud sprinkle after huffing and puffing up a dormant volcano? Do you want to do all of this surrounded by only half the usual amount of tourists like you? I rest my case.

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La Fortuna

3 hours from San Jose airport by car

Thermal Springs

As previously mentioned, the hot springs are a must and there are plenty of hotels, ranging from budget to luxury, that have springs onsite. You can also visit the springs for a day for about $30 pp. We felt we struck the jackpot with El Silencio Del Campo as it was fairly affordable, with lush thermal pools onsite, in which we soaked (as we had wanted to soak in the Budapest baths), with a friendly bartender bringing us very boozy sangrias.

Arenal

You couldn’t miss it if you tried. As you drive into Fortuna, the sleeping giant materializes through a curtain of clouds and you suddenly feel a dire need to approach. Pro tip: drive past the “main entrance” where the guys in yellow jackets wave you down to park and go straight to Mirador el Silencio – an incredible nature preserve on one side of the volcano with lovingly maintained jungle trails (and a lower entrance fee). Weave your way through thick jungle, interspersed with verdant pastures and friendly cows. Keep an eye out for guava trees and sneak a trail snack.

La Fortuna Waterfall

I.e. one of the most intense displays of nature I’ve ever seen. Cascading down almost 200 feet into a turquoise green pool of water, this impressive waterfall is a must see. If you’re going during wet season, be sure to visit in the first half of the day, otherwise risk swimming in this already turbulent swimming hole while there is thunder rumbling somewhere nearby. Oh and factor in the 500 steps to get down and back up… Don’t fret, there is staff monitoring the weather so if it gets too chaotic, they kick you out for your safety.

In awe of La Fortuna waterfall, friendly Costa Rican cows, and enormous foliage

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Monteverde

3 hours from La Fortuna by car or roughly 1 hour by boat

3 hours from San Jose airport by car

Eco-forward Activities

Oh Monteverde, how you stole my heart. 2 days certainly was not enough in this garden of Eden, but we made damn sure to make the most of it. Costa Rica is already known for its eco-tourism and it’s even more potent in Monteverde. The respect garnered for this natural sanctuary was palpable with every local we spoke to and we were lucky to stay at a boutique hotel (Hotel Belmar) that elevated the eco-tourism concept to a whole other level. With an onsite garden and wellspring as well as a partnership with a carbon-negative farm, the hotel hardly impedes on its surrounding environment. On our first night, we took a highly immersive craft cocktail class with the wonderful Andrea – foraging various herbs from the garden and learning about their unique attributes, specific to the Monteverde climate. With all the humidity, mint was a major staple. Cocktails were followed by a culinary farm-to-table feat at Restaurant Celajes.

Horseback Riding

Okay, I guess you could consider this a “typical” activity in Costa Rica. But I think we chose the right place to do it – Finca Madre Tierra, the organic, family-owned farm that we had to thank for our farm-to-table dinner the night before. Let me just… describe this experience to you in unrelenting detail. Pulling up to the farm, nestled among bucolic rolling hills, we were greeted by a slew of friendly farm dogs, puppies, and sheep, all eager to get scratches and pets from us. I’m already squealing at this point okay… After meeting the farm team, our guide Fabian took us around to meet the rest of the animals – donkeys, pigs, ponies, calves, cows, horses, chickens, etc. The farm doesn’t use its animals for meat but does have a good amount of dairy cows, which, of course, we got to milk! As we struggled to get a steady rhythm going, Fabian handed us empty cups so we could drink fresh milk straight from the udder. *Chef’s kiss. Then one of the farmers showed us how it’s done and milked probably 5 gallons of milk in 2 minutes by hand at mind-blowing speed. Afterwards, we got to feed the greedy baby cows by bottle! Finally, it was time for horseback riding. We received a short training on how to communicate with the horses and off we went, up a mountain trail behind the farm. We sauntered through dense forest, waded through streams and rivers, and traversed through lush, mountainous landscapes, and I was transported to what life might have been like years and years ago in this incredible land. Galloping up a slope, we arrived at a hilltop situated above one of the most divine, pastoral views I’ve come across, leading us to feel a sense of otherworldliness, a time and place apart from the harshness of reality. Upon our return to the farm, hungry and inspired, we were fed scrumptious empanadas and coffee made and grown entirely on site. Fabian told us about La Vandola, a method of coffee making invented in Costa Rica, and which we later got to try at Cafe Monteverde to our delight. Post-coffee, we toured the rest of the farm - how they make cheese, their Bokashi composting process, how they grow sugar cane (and getting to press and try sugar cane juice ourselves), and their chicken farm. Suddenly, it was the end of our tour and we felt it had flown by. Driving back to the hotel, we both felt saturated with inspiration, rejuvenated by our full day of connection with nature, and again, already itching to go back.

Cloud Forest

Our last day in Monteverde, we dove into the depth of the cloud forest, a micro-climate of its own. As we learned, the cloud forest is privately owned and run as a large biological reserve, boasting over 2,000 plant species including the highest concentration of orchid species. In fact, the first thing pointed out to our unaccustomed eyes was a minuscule orchid flower that needed a digital microscope to examine. This tiny thing was smaller than my fingernail moon and we learned there are even smaller ones, less than 0.5 mm. We continued on, our extremely knowledgeable guide pointing out intricate ficus trees, tiny avocados, and stopping us mid-stride to listen to unique bird calls. But this was just the bottom of the forest. Because the cloud forest is so dense, plants and even trees have adapted to grow on the branches of larger trees, creating multi-leveled canopies and ecosystems. We were able to see the full scope of these canopies by belaying ourselves up a sophisticated system of rope pulleys – quite a physically demanding feat, but so worth the views at the top. The immensity and concentration of nature in this reserve was hard to comprehend, but was all the more incredible to experience.

Horseback riding and farm-fresh lunch at Finca Madre Tierra

Hotel Belmar Garden Cocktail Class and fresh snacks in the Savvia cloud forest preserve

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Pacific Coast

5 hours from Monteverde by car

5 hours from San Jose airport by car

Tamarindo

A 5-hour drive brought us from Monteverde to the Pacific beach of Tamarindo, one of the more popular beaches in the area. Although everything I read while planning indicated an overcrowded, touristic area, our hotel location and the off-season played entirely in our favor. We absolutely loved Tamarindo and its buzzy but laid back atmosphere. Our hotel, Capitan Suizo, was a lush oasis 5 minutes from downtown, with gorgeous landscaped gardens (complete with monkeys and loud birds) and a serene strip of beach, laden with a plethora of beautiful shells. My “forever” moment in Costa Rica happened here – putting on a fun little strapless dress and heading barefoot down the beach for dinner in town, with the most incredible sunset display, the air warm, and groups of people milling around enjoying the fleeting explosion of color. Dinner was lobster and fish caught fresh that day (and a bottle of bubbly of course). Post-dinner, there is no shortage of awesome drinking holes to stop in, ranging from quaint cocktail bars to bumpy, clubby spots (our favorite was Chiquita’s). Having filled up on adventure in the first half of the trip, we didn’t try out too many excursions in Tamarindo, but there are plenty – surfing, day trips to the jungle, boat tours, turtle watching, snorkeling, etc. When you take in that expansive beach though, it’s hard to want to do anything except drink rum coconuts and bake under the sun and just bask in it all.

Beach-hopping

With 4 whole days on the coast, we made sure to spend at least one exploring various other beaches. If we’d had more time, I would have driven all the way up to Papagayo and down to Puntarenas but the farthest points are up to 3 hours away. So with our one day, we drove up to Las Catalinas – a new beach town development meant to be a walking town, very much in a European style with buildings of various sunny colors. The town is still under construction so although I loved the idea and bougie-ness of it, I’d recommend coming back when it’s fully finished. The views, however, were unmistakably mind-blowing. We drove through a few other local beach towns and did some off-roading to get to a quiet, almost private beach to eat our sandwiches for lunch and dive into the waves. Basically, another reason to rent a car – exploring the Costa Rican coast and all its nooks and crannies is certainly worth it.

Exploring Las Catalinas and pure relaxation at Hotel Capitan Suizo

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On the plane back home, with memories of this lush paradise swimming in my head, one thing stuck with me more than the rest – our trip was filled with so many absolutely riveting conversations with people in every place we stayed. The kindness and openness of Costa Rican people, their willingness to truly know about your life, is something I’ll never forget. Next time, 10 days certainly will not be enough.

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THE PLAN

Where to stay

I think I've made clear that Costa Rica has its eco-tourism down to an art. There were so many incredible hotels, BnBs, and bungalows to choose from, in varying degrees of affordability. But ultimately, I'd urge you to prioritize authenticity and "extras", i.e. look for places that have farms on site, cool and unusual tours, or that offer something unique to each area. For instance, El Silence Del Campo had an onsite, organic farm and the farm manager went above and beyond by involving us in the every day chores, like milking and collecting eggs.

El Silenco Del Campo (Fortuna)

Tifakara Lodge (Fortuna)

Brisas Arenal Hotel (Fortuna)

Hotel Belmar (Monteverde)

Rancho Margot (Monteverde)

Monteverde Lodge (Monteverde)

Capitan Suizo (Tamarindo)

Ocho Artisan Bungalow (Tamarindo)

Cala Luna (Tamarindo)

Where to eat

We ate well in Costa Rica, to put it mildly. I don't think I had a single mediocre dish. Whether you're eating at a local soda or a trendier spot, the food is fresh and the ingredients tantalizing. That being said, I will shout out Don Rufino in La Fortuna particularly – an unassuming but refined little restaurant with an unparalleled level of class and culinary expertise.

La Street Bistro (Fortuna)

Don Rufino (Fortuna)

Rancho Perla (Fortuna)

Organico (Fortuna)

El Chante Verde (Fortuna)

The Open Kitchen (Monteverde)

Restaurant Celajes (Monteverde)

San Lucas Treetop Dining (Monteverde)

Restaurante Thomas & Thiago (Monteverde)

Tramonti (Monteverde)

Stella’s (Monteverde)

El Chiringuito (Tamarindo)

El Santuario (Tamarindo)

Little Lucha (Tamarindo)

Where to drink

And here I will just say that no trip to Costa Rica is complete without chiliguaro – a shot of Guaro (cane-sugar liquor), tomato juice, and hot sauce. Zing!

Chicha’s (Fortuna)

Mondragon (Fortuna)

Voodoo Bar (Fortuna)

Cafe Monteverde (Monteverde) *Get the La Vandola method

Belmar Craft Brewery (Monteverde)

Chiquita’s (Tamarindo)

El Garito (Tamarindo)

Pacific Bar (Tamarindo)

As always, happy planning!